Shodenji Temple: Kyoto's Best Kept Secret

Personally, I think that Shodenji Temple is the most underrated Kyoto attraction. It's great to check out Kyoto's major attractions, but they can get overcrowded and that can kill the Kyoto vibe that people are seeking. I'd rather spend my time in lesser known places that better represent Kyoto as a cultural treasure.

Discovering Kyoto's Hidden Gem: Shodenji Temple

Hidden in Kyoto's northern edge, the Shodenji Temple (正伝寺) stands as a testament to the city's Buddhist tradition. You know that image of a peaceful Japanese setting that comes to mind when you think of Kyoto? Well, this is where that image comes to life. The temple is largely unknown to tourists, and therefore is often left unexplored by those who don’t live in Kyoto.

As a hidden gem, the Shodenji Temple is a must-see location. This temple is small and doesn't attract as much attention as some of Kyoto's other popular sites, but it captures the essence of Kyoto's spiritual Zen tranquility, while embodying the city’s historical significance. It's no wonder that this underrated hidden gem was beloved by the world-renowned rock-star David Bowie, who reportedly fell in love with the temple's tranquility and beauty during his visit.

The Ceiling of Blood

A look back into the temple's history offers a fascinating insight into its origins and its journey through time. Shodenji Temple is a Zen Buddhist temple belonging to the Rinzai School. The temple's history is tied with the violent events of the Battle of Sekigahara. The violent events of that battle have resulted in the temple's most unique feature to this day.

The Battle of Sekigahara took place on October 21, 1600CE, after an 11-day siege at Fushimi Castle. The battle resulted in an estimated 30,000 deaths. It was a key event in Japanese history because it ended the Sengoku period (the Warring States period) and gave rise to the rise of the Tokugawa shogunate.It was a clash between two powerful armies: the Eastern Army led by Tokugawa Ieyasu and the Western Army led by Ishida Mitsunari.

At the end of the Battle of Sekigahara, only a handful of Ishida’s samurai remained. Those soldiers chose to commit seppuku (suicide ritual through disembowelment), which was seen as an honorable death. To honor the deaths of the soldiers, the victorious Tokugawa decided to send the blood-stained floorboards of the castle to various temples around Japan and preserve them in their ceilings. Shodenji Temple houses some of those floorboards on its deck overlooking its garden. It is one of the five Kyoto chitenjoji, or temples with bloody ceilings, that remember those warriors. If you look closely, you will notice hand prints remain in those wooden boards.

How to Get to Shodenji Temple

The journey to Shodenji Temple is an adventure in itself. Nestled in a thick forest bordering Kyoto's north, the hidden gem of a temple can be reached via two distinct paths. The first, a straightforward route, involves a bus ride from the Kitaoji Station to Jinkoin-mae Bus Station, followed by a 750-meter walk.

The second option is a leisurely hour-long walk from Kitaoji Station for those seeking a scenic detour. This route leads you through Kyoto's serene back streets and residential neighborhoods, offering a glimpse into local life.

The Zen Architecture of Shodenji

The Shodenji Temple, although small in scale, exudes an aura of tranquility and peace. The temple complex consists of a single pavilion with a tatami floor, radiating with an aura of Zen Buddhism. The interiors feature a large drawing of Buddha in Nirvana, with sutras so minutely written that one needs a magnifying glass to read them. The pavilion also houses one of Japan's famous blood ceilings, a stark reminder of the temple's historical past.

Shodenji Temple's charm extends beyond its historical and spiritual significance. A bamboo grove and a sprawling graveyard surrounds the temple, offering stunning views of Kyoto with Mount Daimonji in the backdrop. During the spring season, rhododendron bushes bloom in the garden, painting the landscape in hues of light pink and adding an ephemeral beauty to the overall scenery.

The Dry Garden of Shodenji

The Shodenji Temple's dry garden, known as karesansui, stands out as a unique amalgamation of Zen Buddhist philosophy and natural beauty. Replacing the usual rocks found in Zen gardens, clusters of trimmed azaleas grow from the white gravel base, grouped auspiciously in the shichi-go-san (7-5-3) configuration, a concept derived from Taoist philosophy.

The garden, named Shishi no Ko Watashi Teien (獅子の児渡し庭園) or "Delivery of Lion Cubs Crossing the River Garden," is a visual metaphor for a lioness and her cubs. As an embodiment of Zen symbolism, the garden encourages introspection and meditation, offering a serene retreat from the world outside.

Shodenji Temple: An Underrated Marvel in Kyoto

In a city known for its numerous temples and shrines, the Shodenji Temple stands out as a must-see destination. As an underrated marvel and a hidden gem, it offers a unique blend of historical charm and natural beauty. Whether you're a history buff, a nature lover, or a seeker of spiritual solace, Shodenji Temple will leave an impression.