Otagi Nenbutsu-ji: The Hidden Must-See Treasure of Kyoto
James Saunders-Wyndham
Table of contents:
What is Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple?
Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple is a small but unique Buddhist Temple that is nestled into the side of a hill in the west of Kyoto city, and home to about 1200 short distinct, eccentric rakan statues covered in moss. Nenbutsu-ji is not one of the prominent sightseeing spots of Kyoto, but it certainly stands out as one of the most unique temples of the city.
A True Hidden Gem of Kyoto
I've lived in Kyoto for years and until recently I had never heard of the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji temple (愛宕 念仏寺). To say that his temple is a hidden-gem is an understatement. In fact, ask a Kyoto native, and you will most likely find that few locals are even aware of this hidden treasure.
I was happily surprised to discover this unique Kyoto temple. The temple grounds of Nenbutsu-ji are small with just a few buildings on on the premises. However, the collective sight of the tiny rakan statues covering the hillside, patiently watching over the temple, is quite remarkable. The hoard of the moss-covered rakan statues is an awesome sight and adds a certain personal charm that tends to be absent in many Japanese temples.
As I slowly made my way past the moss-covered rakan statues, I realized that they all had different features and represented different states of emotion. No two statues look alike... At least not that I could see. It's because of this grand collection of moss-covered statues that Otagi Nenbutsu-ji reveals itself as a must-see temple in Kyoto. The statues, and their worn state, create temple's narrative and creates a uniqueness amongst Kyoto's temples.
An Alternative to the Big Kyoto Sights
Kyoto is getting very crowded from tourism these days. People who come to Kyoto of course are excited to see Kyoto's most popular sightseeing spots that are shown most often online, such as the red gates of Fushimi-Inari Shrine and Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion) with its famous golden temple.
However, those places have become so crowded that it might not be the Kyoto you've been looking for. I recommend that people take the time to check out lesser known sights of the city that will bring you closer to the image of Kyoto that you've imagined.
Where is Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple?
Nenbutsu Temple can be found in a less explored part of Kyoto's western district. Located in a tranquil part of Kyoto's Arashiyama district's lush landscape, this hidden gem is overshadowed by the more famous temples in Kyoto. However, the temple offers a spiritual retreat steeped in history and serenity.
How to Get To Nenbutsu Temple
Otagi Nenbutsu-ji is nestled in the scenic Arashiyama neighborhood of Kyoto. In fact, getting there is an adventure in itself. Here are the best ways to reach this serene sanctuary:
Travel By Public Transport
- Bus: Catch lines 62, 72, 92, or 94, bound for Kiyotaki-Arashiyama, and alight at Otagi-dera mae. A brief 2-minute walk will lead you to the temple's welcoming gates.
- Train: The JR Sagano Line from Kyoto station to Saga-Arashiyama is another viable option, followed by a leisurely 30-minute walk through the picturesque surroundings (This is a good option for those with a JR Pass).
Alternative Modes
- Taxi: For those looking for convenience, a taxi from JR Arashiyama Station is quick, taking approximately 5 minutes and costing around 2000 Yen. Alternatively, bus no. 62 stops directly opposite the temple entrance for easy access.
- On Foot: Embrace the journey by walking from the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove to Otagi-ji Temple. This route offers a captivating experience as you pass through the well-preserved traditional Saga-Toriimoto street, immersing you in the local culture and scenery.
Whichever path you choose, Otagi Nenbutsu-ji's allure begins with the journey, setting the stage for a tranquil exploration of one of Kyoto's most unique temples.
The History of Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple
Initially established in the Higashiyama area in 770 by Empress Shōtoku, the temple faced numerous challenges, including being washed away by a flood. It found a new home in the north-east of Kyoto during the early Heian period, only to fall into disrepair over the centuries. A significant move in 1922 aimed to preserve its core structures, but a devastating typhoon in 1955 left it severely damaged.
Who Built the Rakan Statues of Nenbutsu-ji Temple?
Enter Kocho Nishimura in 1955, a sculptor and monk, who not only restored the temple but also infused it with a new life. He initiated a unique project, inviting visitors to carve statues of Buddha's disciples, leading to the creation of the 1200 Rakan statues by amateurs from across Japan in the 1980s. This innovative approach not only helped in the temple's renovation but also engaged the community in a deeply spiritual and artistic endeavor.
The temple's principal image, a Kamakura Period statue with asymmetrical eyes, presides over this serene setting. The Nishimura family continues to explore new ways to spread the Buddha’s message of happiness, incorporating music, photography, and video into the temple's offerings. Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, now an offshoot of the nearby Enryaku-ji, stands as a vibrant testament to the enduring spirit of Kyoto's religious and cultural heritage.
Exploring the 1200 Rakan Statues
Amidst the serene ambiance of Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, the 1200 Rakan statues stand as a testament to the temple's unique charm and spiritual depth. Each statue, crafted between 1981 and 1991 by amateurs led by the sculptor Kocho Nishimura, showcases a diverse range of expressions and poses, from reading a book to a child, laughing, holding a camera, to playing musical instruments. This diversity not only reflects the individuality of Buddha's disciples but also embodies a broader spectrum of human emotions and activities, making each visit a deeply personal experience.
Unique Personalities and Actions:
- Reading to a child
- Laughing
- Holding a camera
- Playing musical instruments
The main prayer hall of the temple further enriches the visitor's journey by enshrining the thousand-armed Yakuyoke Senju Kannon and the Hiyoke Jizo Bosatsu, offering protection against evil spirits and fire, respectively. Here, visitors are invited to sit in front of the Buddha statues, enveloped by a tranquil atmosphere ideal for meditation and reflection. The hall also offers a breathtaking view of the Rakan statues set against the backdrop of lush autumn foliage, providing a picturesque scene that blends spiritual reverence with natural beauty.
Adding to the temple's allure are the small shrines scattered across its grounds, including the “Fureai Kannon” created by Nishimura for individuals who are blind. This shrine embodies the temple's healing essence, inviting visitors to touch the parts of Kannon’s body corresponding to their ailments and seek blessings for health and happiness. This interactive and inclusive approach, coupled with the humorous and content expressions of the Rakan figures, has rightfully earned Otagi Nenbutsu-ji the title of "the temple of healing."
FAQs
What is the recommended duration for a visit to Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple?
While Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple is not large in size, visitors often spend more time than expected. Typically, one might tour a temple of this scale within 10-15 minutes, but the unique statues at Otagi Nenbutsu-ji invite a longer, more detailed examination.
Is a trip to Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple recommended?
Absolutely, Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple is considered a worthwhile destination. Located in the western part of Kyoto, it may be slightly off the beaten path but compensates with its stunning array of intricately carved stone deities. The moss that adorns these figures further enhances their charm. There is an admission fee of 300 Yen.
Which Kyoto temple is known for its moss-covered statues?
The Otagi Nembutsuji Temple, situated in the Arashiyama area of Kyoto, is recognized for its thousands of unique moss-covered statues. These statues are known as Rakan and each one is individually carved, offering a distinctive sight relatively free from crowds.
Which Kyoto temple houses the large Buddha statue?
The Hōkō-ji Temple, also referred to as the Great Buddha of Kyoto, is home to the city's significant Buddha statue. Founded in the 16th century, this temple was established by Toyotomi Hideyoshi with the intention to create a Daibutsu (Great Buddha) that would rival the one in Nara.